Secret Ingredients

by David Remnick

Dining out: All you can hold for five bucks / Joseph Mitchell -- The finest butter and lots of time / Joseph Wechsberg -- A good appetite / A.J. Liebling -- The afterglow / A.J. Liebling -- Is there a crisis in French cooking? / Adam Gopnik -- Don't eat before reading this / Anthony Bourdain -- A really big lunch / Jim Harrison -- Eating in: The secret ingredient / M.F.K. Fisher -- The trouble with tripe / M.F.K. Fisher -- Nor censure nor disdain / M.F.K. Fisher -- Good cooking: / Calvin Tomkins -- Look back in hunger / Anthony Lane -- The reporter's kitchen / Jane Kramer -- Fishing and foraging: A mess of clams / Joseph Mitchell -- A forager / John McPhee -- The fruit detective / John Seabrook -- Gone fishing / Mark Singer -- On the bay / Bill Buford -- Local delicacies: An attempt to compile a short history of The buffalo chicken wing / Calvin Trillin -- The homesick restaurant / Susan Orlean -- The magic bagel / Calvin Trillin -- A rat in my soup / Peter Hessler -- Raw faith / Burkh